Going Geechee in Charleston
Posted by Dylan on March 8, 2010Author Dorthea Benton Frank’s books reflect her love of South Carolina’s Lowcountry and her respect for the Geechee (also known as Gullah) culture that dates back to 1670. Nearly half of the slaves imprisoned in the Atlantic slave trade arrived through Charleston Harbor in the 1700s. Today, far from slavery, the Geechee/Gullah culture is celebrated and revered in South Carolina. Readers of Dot Frank’s books have been flocking to Charleston for years to discover more. Find a comfortable place to stay in the present for a journey back to the past.
Known for their craftsmanship, buying a contemporary Gullah artisan’s sweetgrass basket is akin to purchasing a piece of southern history. First used on the plantations for rice cultivation, basket making became an art form for slaves unable to work in the fields. The community of Mt. Pleasant, located north of Charleston, is arguably the best place to purchase sweetgrass baskets made by Geechee artisans. Basket stands are located along Highway 17. If venturing out of Charleston is not an option, baskets are available for purchase on Meeting, Market and Broad Streets.
Also crafty in the kitchen, the Geechee people are heralded for their cuisine. Located south of Charleston, Dye’s Gullah Fixin’s in Hilton Head is an authentic place to sample Gullah grub. Dishes with unusual names like hoe cake, perlo and swimp and grits are staples. Swimp is not misspelled; it’s simply the Gullah name for shrimp. Geechee/Gullah is not only a culture, it’s a language. “Chillun” stands for children and “box-up” means closed tightly.
The Geechees also have a unique belief system. For example, hair that remains in a brush must be flushed away or burned, and fish will not bite during a full moon due to their sore mouths. No patterns for sewing should be cut on Fridays, and horseshoes can be hung above a front door for good luck only if they are placed to form the letter “u” ??otherwise the luck might run out. Gullah history includes the practice of uncommon medical treatments. Bandages made of spider webs were used to control bleeding and small pieces of brown paper, licked like postage stamps, were stuck on foreheads to stop hiccups.
For Dot Frank’s fans and anyone else curious to learn more about Geechee/Gullah history, Charleston is the perfect destination to discover more .